Day 17

Spent most of today meandering through the windy streets of Sao Luis, picking up the odd bit of food from a pretty little French cafe (SL was originally a French colony and the influence lives on) and then from a supermarket. We had planned to go to the beach but instead just napped and lunched in our room. Sao Luis is a really unique, enjoyable city. The buildings are all Georgian, with that alluring frayed-around-the-edges look. Everywhere you turn the not un-Sevillian cobbled streets are lined with contrasting, pastelled houses, or decaying vine-laden facades bursting with character and colour. After one day here Rob and I have been semi-seriously suggesting different places we could buy and run as a hostel. Its just infectious.

Last night after I wrote we went to the nearest square for a few beers. It was rammed full of people, families, and bunting. From Thursday to Sunday this month there is a festival on. Today we went again and saw some of the dancing in thebig hall. A massive room lined with people heaved with life, flares coating the ceiling and beautiful dancers in traditional costumes filling the stage. The centrepiece was a dancing, glittering, bull-costumed man. Didn`t really know what was going on but we were all impressed nonetheless.

Earlier in the day Renaud met two French guys who told him we should go to their restaurant/bar then some party. We decided to have a few drinks first and when we`d just moved onto a caipirinha each the rest of our group turned up: Azir, Joanna, Leia and Cecilia. Still no sign of the Argentines but it was a great coincidence and suddenly the night took off. We decided to move straight on to the party, and two Brazilian girls we had met, Monica and Valeria, came with us.

The party was down on the port, a shortish walk from the centre. We were patted down through and entrance and walked into an area the size of a cricket pitch full, but not crammed, with people just enjoying themselves. It cost nothing to get in, beer was reasonable and there was a live band on. No aggro, no idiots, the kind of thing that could never happen in England. We had a great night; the music, the beer, our friends returning, meeting new ones all blending to coat the night in a glowing, happy haze. We bundled into taxis and got ready to join the others on their Lencois tour, which left at 5am. Unfortunately when we had walked there, and waited for the better part of an hour for our Spanish friends to wake up, we were told that there were no spaces and had to walk home. Can`t have it all, we`ll just have to go on Monday or Tuesday.

Brilliant night allround though. Sao Luis is a special town and another that I`d like to have a lot more time in. The architecture, the reggae, the people (known as the friendliest and most accomodating in a generally friendly country), the general atmosphere is just perfect here.