Day 41

Missed breakfast today, but this slight blow was innumerably softened when we saw the weather: clear, cloudless, Canoa Quebrada-esque skies for the first time in a while. We headed straight for Christ the Redeemer, via a nice little salgados and acai bar. Met a couple of German girls on the bus there and decided we'd try and get a cheaper price when we got there. Problem was the weather was great, so it was packed, we didn't look around very much and R$36 (a tenner) didn't really seem to outrageous for one of the world's premier tourist attractions.

Stopped halfway up the hill to get a good view of the statue. Started to understand better what Jamie was talking about when he said Rio had to be viewed from a height to be appreciated. From the top, next to the huge art deco statue, a wild, mountain-scatter curved around the bay, pebbling islands reclining in the turquoise, rolling see, almost whale-like. Rio is a huge clutter of charm, blocks, favelas, hills, mountains and beaches. A light haze lent the Horth mountain range and delta a near Grecian air, jagged unusual rock formations rising, then still rising out of the purpley hue. Beneath us in the city swimming pools shone in the sun, along with the now unimposing Maracana.

In amongst the normal city heights lay a huge lagoon in Botafogo, and countless other natural intrusions. Behind the statue a huge, untamed forest covered the soaring mountainsides. I can't quite conjure the full image of this section of Rio and translate it into words, its just too vast, too full. Go and see it for yourselves, its worth being surrounded by photographing Americans for.

Lit a candle for my Dad's Mum by the chapel, she likes that kind of thing and though I'm not religious it just seemed like the thing to do. This little moment of reflection was somewhat undermined by them playing 'Killing Me Softly' inside the chapel. Again I bumped into the German guys up there, which was good because I hadn't seen them for a few days. After an hour we had to make our way back down, stopping to watch some more monkeys praet about in the trees. Having a perfectly clear day for this was just another lucky stroke on this trip, unforgettable.

Met Renaud back at the hostel, lunched, and then made our way down to Ipanema, where we soon found Jamie, Lawrie and Ollie. After a quick swim through the waves, which reared fearfully before crushing down and flying to the shore, we watched the sunset on the rocks. Ipanema, like the view from Christ the Redeemer mountain, gives a perfect illustration of the sharp contrasts found all over Brazil. This stunning, rightly reputed beach is lined with expensive hotels and an upmarket district, with surfers and holidaymakers filling the sands. As the land immediately around it slopes, though, favelas begin to fowm, on some of the primest real estate in Brazil. Jamie told us this happened because the rich people needed servants, who farmed surrounding land when the city was small. Consequently the city centre is full of the piled slums, only a few were moved 'Cidade de Deus' style out of the city. As the sun dropped the lights began to click on all around and suddenly the favelas lit up became like toddler-applied Christmas decorations on distorted, gigantic Christmas trees, scattered, glittering beauty. Jamie has told us a lot about his experiences of favelas, it would be amazing to see one myself, but not on the sterile gringo tour thats offered.

Bussed back and said goodbye to Jamie, who I've just found out won't be out tonight so its the last time for a while. Like Renaud he has helped us immeasureably and we're both so grateful to him. Another life-long friend made.